Fechas y elevaciones faltantes
La mayoría de las entradas en el campsites La columna tiene esta forma:
'BC(08/12,5400m),C1(10/12,6000m),C2(14/12,6300m),C3(19/12,7500m),C4(10/01,7800m),xxx(10/01,7800m)'
Una cadena de nombres de campamentos, fechas (en formato DD/MM) y elevaciones (en metros). En el ejemplo anterior, el primer campamento es “BC” (campamento base), la expedición acampó allí el 12/08 y la elevación del campamento era de 5400 m. Desafortunadamente, a veces faltan fechas y elevaciones. Por ejemplo, expedición EVER84101 (o EVER84101–1984 bajo el nuevo ID de expedición) tiene la siguiente información del camping:
BC(08/03,5100m),C1,C2,C3.ABC,C4(12/04,7000m),C5(25/04,7680m),C6(15/05,8230m),C7(19/05,8540m),xxx(20/05,8600m)
Como puede ver, faltan algunas fechas de campamento y elevaciones para esta expedición. Deberíamos poder estimar las elevaciones de los campamentos observando otras expediciones, al menos para la mayoría de los campamentos. Por ejemplo, el campamento C1 probablemente tenía alrededor de 6000 m de altura (según el primer registro de campamento que compartí). También podemos estimar una fecha para el campamento de BC (si faltara) en función del valor en el bcdate columna, pero no podemos estimar las fechas para los campamentos C1, C3 y C3. Esto significa que no podemos utilizar estos campamentos como puntos de referencia para la expedición. Decidí eliminar puntos de referencia en los que no podía recuperar la fecha y la elevación del perfil de elevación de una expedición.
Información faltante por completo
En otros casos, el campo del campamento simplemente tiene texto que dice cosas como “Ver descripciones de notas de ruta para equipos individuales” o “ver detalles de ruta”. En teoría, es posible recuperar cierta información del texto de detalles de la ruta, que se parece a esto:
South Side Camp Details:
BC at closest possible site to Icefall
C1 at top of Icefall
C2 at bottom of Lhotse Face in Cwm (normal site)
C3 on Lhotse Face right of Geneva Spur
C4 at South Col
C5 on SE Ridge (halfway South Col-South Summit).BC(28/03,5350m),C1(04/04,6000m),ABC(11/04,6500m),C3(19/04,7300m),
C4(28/04,7986m),C5(04/05,8300m),Smt(05,10/05)
North Side Camp Details:
BC(06/03,5154m),C1(11/03,5500m),C2(12/03,6000m),ABC C3(17/03,6500m),
C4(01/04,7028m),C5(08/04,7790m),C6(02/05,8200m),C7(04/05,8680m),Smt(05/05)
South team had to hurry up to catch up with N side climbers because were 10 days late at BC due to transport problems to BC (after 29 March in almost daily walkie-talkie radio contact with north side). No mountaineering problems but communications problems among 3 nationalities who had "quite different" ideas especially "Chinese who had quite a bureaucratic inflexible attitude." Chinese were CMA staffers or TMA staff members, not army who had to obey orders from North BC or later when contact established by radio with Beijing, orders from Beijing of what they must do - where as most Japanese members paid some fees to join. Nepalese on salary from NMA but were quite familiar to Japanese. Tibetans could not speak frankly to others because "observers" were in BC who were Han Chinese and Han Chinese at BC could not differ with Beijing.
South side climbing not much snow, so had packed ice. Icefall very dry and stable - on summit climb 5 May, deep snow on ridge. 5 May summit group planned to be 2 traversing parties: Top Bahadur Khatri in 2nd group but miscalculated oxygen supply with not enough on South Col: 24 bottles were there Ok but 17 or 18 empty on 4 May when these 6 and 6 support members on Col or above, hoping all to go to top. 2 Chinese were to go so went, Ang Phurba followed them to C5 to 8300m on 4 May - not enough oxygen at 8300m for Kitamura to go with them, so he stayed at C4 and tried to go to top on 5th from C4 early morning in very strong wind. Khatri and Isona and supporting members including Sungdare did not try to go up because oxygen at Col only enough for one summiter from there. Kitamura reached South Summit at 3:00 pm; was told it too late for him to continue, leadership felt, and told Yamada to bring him down.
7 May Beijing said climb finished but young Japanese and some Nepalese climbers did not agree. 6 Nepalese went to South Col: Sungdare, Padam Bahadur Tamang, Ang Karma, Ang Rita (Thami), Narayan Shrestha and Hira Bahadur Rana - why all 6 did not reach summit Isono doesn't know. Nepalese defied end of climb decision and it was their country, but Japanese were not permitted to continue, much to their unhappiness.
South Chinese climbing leader stayed in North Col camp with Shigehiro at end of climbing period.
North side 3 stages of climb:
1) make camps and carry loads to N Col,
2) do same to C6 with loads but not occupy higher camps - then all down
to BC for rest,
3) complete climb
In 1st stages down to BC when bad weather came after C3 established. In 2nd stage C6 reached but not slept in for 1st time on 9th April. In 3rd stage C6 occupied and rest of climb completed. Did not at any time have to wait for south side climbers to make progress because south side route easier to climb and number of camps less and fact summit date fixed for 5 May. team led by Yamada who knew south route. 6 Yamada selected before leaving Japan so could descend without south side climbers to guide them down. Oxygen used in C5 sleeping, same members climbing above C5, all members sleeping in C6 and C8 and climbing above C7. From summit Yamada left about 10:30 am with Ang Lhakpa and Cerin Douji. Linert Yamada party at top and left 11:00 am. Lhakpa Sona and Yamoumoto left 12:30 pm. Camera crew reached top just few minutes before south side trio arrived and left at 1:00 pm. 2nd traverse team in C5 ready to go to top (had ferried oxygen and food and fuel to C6 on 6 May) when decision taken late night 6 May by Chinese leader (final decision taken 3:00 am 7 May Chinese time) so 2nd team to N Col 7 May. In 2nd team was Mitani who would have been his 4th ascent.
[ADDITIONAL TEXT WAS REMOVED FOR THIS EXAMPLE]
Puede ver que la información del campamento que queremos está disponible cerca del inicio del documento (en realidad, hay dos equipos):
noth_side = BC(28/03,5350m),C1(04/04,6000m),ABC(11/04,6500m),C3(19/04,7300m), C4(28/04,7986m),C5(04/05,8300m),Smt(05,10/05)
south_side = BC(06/03,5154m),C1(11/03,5500m),C2(12/03,6000m),ABC C3(17/03,6500m),C4(01/04,7028m),C5(08/04,7790m),C6(02/05,8200m),C7(04/05,8680m),Smt(05/05)
Decidí no intentar recuperar la información del camping a partir de los detalles de la ruta. La razón principal fue que el texto no estaba disponible en los datos de las expediciones que extraje, y necesitaría:
- tomar prestada la computadora portátil de mi amigo nuevamente para ver si los datos de los detalles de la ruta estaban disponibles,
- o escriba un raspador web con Selenium para extraer detalles de la ruta de The Base de datos del Himalaya en línea página.
Entonces, necesitaría automatizar la extracción de información del campamento. Debido a que estaba creando esta visualización por diversión, decidí no seguir este camino y en su lugar eliminé este tipo de registro de la visualización.
Múltiples equipos
Otro problema con las descripciones de los campamentos es que algunas expediciones tienen información para varios equipos:
BC(05-06/08,5250m),ABC(15-16/08,5821m),C1(20/08,6248m); W-Ridge.C2(03,05/09,6700m),C3(08/09,6900m)xxx(10/09,7240m); N-Face-xxx(23/09,7315m) (see route notes)
En estos casos, me quedé sólo con la primera ruta.